by Greg Adams![]() 1. ART 30370 Right Hand 5 Foot Radius Switch In August 1998, Aristocraft released their new 10 foot diameter, wide-radius switches. We will call them 5 foot radius to be consistent with the rest of the industry. These switches are mass produced with good quality and are reasonably priced. They are intended for regular outdoor use. Prior to this, the largest radius switches generally available were only 4 foot radius; or were handmade, expensive and not really suitable for use outside. But oh what a difference one foot can make. When winding through a switched S curve, close coupled heavyweight or streamline cars make it through with no problem. This should prove to be the new standard in G gauge switches. There is one curious thing though. For some reason Aristocraft has chosen an odd cut angle which we estimate to be approximately 17.5 to 18 degrees. Officially Aristocraft says 18. Mighty strange. This means that out of the box they won't work with any other curved track offered by Aristocraft or any other manufacturer. You might expect that at an angle of 18 degrees, the radius is less than 5 feet but it isn't. To verify, I superimposed one of the switches with a regular 5 foot radius, 30 degree curve. As you can see in picture 2 they align perfectly. The switch is 5 feet.
When next to the same curve as in picture 3, you can see that it is slightly more than half of the length of the curve. Half would be 15 degrees.
This is further verified in picture 4 where two switches together are clearly longer than one standard curved piece.
The implication is that you will have to cut track to make the switches useable with the standard 5 foot radius, 30 degree curves. For example, if you cut the curve end by 3 degrees, then you would have a 15 degree switch. This could be matched with a regular 5 foot radius curve cut in half to be 15 degrees. If you don't want to cut your switches, then you can cut a curved track to 12 degrees to match a 30 degree standard 5 foot radius curve. Alternatively, you can cut a 4.5 degree piece to match up with 22.5 degree curves such as Aristocraft's 4 foot or 10 foot radius track. Note that the wide radius switches are available only with American style ties which are narrow in comparison to the more familiar European style. In fact, all Aristocraft track is now available with American style ties so you can match your rail. American and European look ok together except for the most discerning rivet counter. You can see the difference in the ties in pictures 3 and 4. Technically the switches work well. The mechanism is solid and the rails line up tight at the points. Very little maintenance should be required. However, a number of users have reported the screws shown in picture 6 falling out at the pivot point. To fix this, you can remove the screws, add some plastic compatible Loctite and reinsert the screws. Make sure you do not to tighten them too much and bind the mechanism. It should be loose enough to swing smoothly, yet tight enough to retain the pleasant snap when you throw the switch.
Switch Box Maintenance Over time, the switch boxes will gather dirt and insect shells inside. Earwigs love 'em. Open them up and clean them. Don't take the insides apart, if you don't have to. Inspect the condition of the spring, as it will rust and deteriorate over time. Remove and replace the spring only if you have to. Make a drawing or take a digital photo before disassembling the switch throw. Lubricate the mechanism using a little plastic compatible oil and close them back up. On the older wide radius switches, the throw bar had a spring under one of the screws at the points. The spring would deteriorate over time and the point would not align firmly. New throw bars, without the springs, are available from Aristo-Craft. When ordering, make sure your get the new shouldered screws for the throw bar or you will have to make a spacer for the old one. On the older switches the guard rail was made of brass. The spacing (gauge) on them should be OK. On the new ones, the guard rail is made of plastic and there may be too much space between it and the rail it faces. This may allow the wheels of motive power and rolling stock to hit the frog. If you encounter this problem, apply a couple of strips of duct tape to the inside of the guard rail. If this cures it, attach a permanent shim. Some have used a strip of styrene, others a strip of brass. Some have even cut away the plastic guard rail and replaced it with one made from brass or aluminum track.
To return to the Modeling Tips Index, Comments:From wdsrwg [207.190.125.19] - 7/15/07 8:47 AM I am switching over from HO to G this Fall.
I was most interest in your power box delema
concerning the Earwigs. To keep these nasty
things out just spray a coating of a product
called 356 bug spray.
This will keep every bug know to man from getting
near the boxes.
I spray every spring and have not had an insect
problem since.
It is safe for all other forms of life and can be
stored and reused.
From Bill [69.173.7.12] - 2/15/06 6:55 PM Thank you. This article has been very helpful. Well, done.
Bill
Comment on this Page Last Modified 7/24/07 12:52 AM |