MU Plug - Bachmann 0-4-0
The following pictures and text detail how to install an MU plug on a Bachmann 0-4-0 tank locomotive.

An MU plug is used to connect a trailing car containing both battery packs and a radio controlled receiver. The battery packs provide power for the locomotive through the receiver, and the receiver controls the locomotive’s speed and direction. To view an article on how to build a power car, just click on the following link.
Power Car
CAUTION: Some soldering skills using a small soldering pencil are required. Modifying the wiring may void the warranty on your locomotive.
Turn the locomotive over and place it on a foam lined engine cradle or the Styrofoam insert it came in. Remove the two screws (circled in yellow) from the steps under the rear coupler and remove the steps. This will eliminate the need to remove the coupler as I did.

Then remove the six shorter screws (circled in red) from the bottom cover of the motor block and between the front cylinders. Place all the screws in a small container so they do not get lost.
Gently lift off the motor block bottom cover. After removing the rods between the smoke box and the front pilot, the drive mechanism can be separated from the boiler and cab.

The track power pick-ups are the brass strips running under both axles and beside the motor. These must be removed in order not to feed battery power back into the tracks.

Start by swinging the front axle back over the motor.

Remove the two tiny chrome screws (circled in red) on each side of the motor block holding the spring loaded axle rubbing devices. Be careful not to lose any of the parts, as these devices will be put back to steady the axle.

Remove the tiny, chrome screw (circled in yellow) from the center of each brass strip. Remove the two, front pieces of brass strip and place them in a baggie. Mark the model and number of the engine on the baggie.
Replace the axle rubbing devices, and swing the front axle back into position.
NOTE: If you encounter as much difficulty as I did replacing these devices, dip the end of the springs in a puddle of CA (superglue) and glue them to the motor block.
The rear portion of the brass strips are glued to the sides of the motor block. Using a razor knife or similar tool, pry the strips off the walls of the motor block.

There are two wires soldered to the end of each of the rear brass strips: one from the motor and one from the headlight. Unsolder these wires.
There is a wire soldered to each of the motor tabs. Unsolder these wires. Place the small motor wires and the rear brass strips in the baggie with the other parts. Place the baggie in one of the small crevices in the Styrofoam packing and stick a piece of tape over it. Should you ever want to return this locomotive to track power for re-sale, you will have the parts handy.

Turn the chassis over and drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the motor block just above the coupler mounting bracket. With the locking tab of the plug facing up, run the two wires through the hole. Trim the wires so the plug is the same length as the coupler. Solder one of the plug wires and one of the headlight wires to each of the motor terminals.

NOTE: As I did not have the coupler in place, the leads on the plug shown are a little short.
Roll the chassis over and place a glob of hot glue on the plug wires inside the motor block for strain relief.

NOTE: Now is a good time to apply some grease to the gears and oil the motor bearings.
Place the boiler and cab on top of the chassis and fix the motor block and its cover in place with five of the shorter screws (circled in red). Re-install the screw (circled in red) between the cylinders, and the two longer ones (circled in yellow) holding the steps on the back pilot. Turn the locomotive over and install the two braces between the smoke box and the front pilot.
NOTE: If the back of the engine block does not want to fit, ensure the top motor tab is bent straight up, not flat as shown in previous photos, so it will clear.
NOTE: The upper portion of the coupler pin may have to be filed or sanded down so it will not interfere with the swing of the plug and coupler.

Congratulations! You now have a Bachmann 0-4-0 tank locomotive that you can use with battery power and radio control.
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