ovgrs - Powered - USA Trains GP-7/9

This article details a method of converting a USA Trains GP-7/9 diesel from track power to on board, battery power and radio control using an Aristo-Craft, lithium-ion battery pack, Plug and Play board, and 2.4 GHz Revolution Train Engineer receiver.

Unlike the USA Trains S-4, the GP-9 is a power hog with large motors and incandescent lamps that drastically reduce battery run times. For this reason all the inefficient electronics except the motors will be removed, and LED headlights and number board lights added. As all the electronics will be stored intact in a Ziploc bag however, nothing prevents the locomotive from being restored to its original condition for re-sale at a later date.

Read the entire article slowly and completely, making note of the components required for the power conversion.

This article is purposely divided into small steps with very detailed instructions and lots of pictures. Print out the instructions, and take your time completing a section at a time. While not difficult, the entire process will take some time to do well, so patience is a definite necessity.

Although this conversion requires more work than others, the results are very satisfying. The finished diesel is very powerful and smooth running. Initial tests indicate that battery run times of better than two hours are possible. There are also a number modeling skills learned in the process which can be used in other projects.

THE SIDE FRAMES

It is imperative that the track power pick-ups be disconnected so that the locomotive can not pick up track power or feed battery power into the tracks. The result could be electronically catastrophic.

Place the locomotive upside down in a soft cradle taking care not to damage the horns.

Remove the leaf spring stirrup from each of the side frames. Remove the screws outlined in yellow, and the side frames from the ends of the axles. Install the twelve screws back in the motor block cradles so they do not get lost or mixed up with others.

Unplug the four wires from each of the motor blocks. Wipe the excess grease off the ends of the axles, and set the motor blocks aside for now.

Unsolder all the wires from the tabs on the inside of all the side frames. Wipe the grease off the wires that ran between the tabs, and place them in a large Ziploc bag labeled with GP-9, the road name, and road number.

Wipe the excess grease off the side frames. Place the spring stirrups and side frames in a separate Ziploc bag. They will be re-installed when the locomotive is re-assembled.

THE MOTOR BLOCKS

Remove the six screws and the bottom cover from each motor block. Place the screws in a small container so they do not get lost.

Remove the small screws outlined in red from the motor blocks and place them in the small container. Lift up the chrome brackets, and remove the track sliders and wire wipers sprung between the axles. Fasten the chrome brackets back in place with the small screws.

Clean the track sliders and axle wipers. Place them in the large Ziploc bag with the wires removed from the side frames.

Lift the axles sets out and inspect the plastic sleeves on each side of the pinion gear for splits. If you can gently turn a wheel while holding the other, the sleeve is split. They can be fixed using the method in the PINION GEAR AXLE SLEEVES repair tip, or replaced with complete axle assemblies from USA Trains. If you wish to replace an axle assembly with rubber traction tires with an axle assembly without them, be sure to specify that in your parts order to USA Trains.

Place the axles back in the motor blocks ensuring the bushings are seated properly in the slots in the sides of the motors blocks. Pop the covers back on and fasten them with their screws. Do not fully tighten any of the screws until all the screws have been inserted and turned down some. If you fully tighten the screws as you go, the last few may be hard to insert and may strip the threads in the plastic motor block.

Turn the motor blocks over. Remove the six screws and the top cover from each motor block. Place the screws in a small container so they do not get lost. Remove the small, lash adjusting assemblies from the end of each motor block and place them in the small container for the same reason.

New wires will be soldered directly to the motor terminals to replace the USAT motor wires with their tiny and sometimes unreliable, slip-on connectors.

Lift the motors out of the motor blocks. There are four brass rods in each motor block. The two on the outside provide power to the motor terminals and are secured with small screws and plastic washers. Remove the screws and washers and place them in the small container. Lift the brass rods out of the motor block and place them in the large Ziploc bag with the track sliders.

On one of the motors, solder a 12 inch length of red wire to the terminal marked with a red dot and a 12 inch length of black wire to the other. Repeat the process for the other motor.

If required, lubricate the pinion gears on the axles and worm gears on the motor shaft with plastic compatible grease.

Place a motor back in a motor block and push the wires into the channels left by the brass rod. Secure the wires using the small screws and plastic washers placed in the small container. Repeat the process for the other motor block.

Place the lash adjuster assemblies back in their slots on the ends of the motor blocks. If necessary, use a little grease to hold them in place. Set the top covers back on. If the covers are not fitting tightly, check to ensure the lash adjuster assemblies are seated properly. Fasten the covers with their screws.

That completes the re-wiring and lubrication of the motor blocks. Set them aside for now. They will be re-installed when the locomotive is re-assembled.

THE SHELL

Carefully remove the handrails from the sides and ends of the locomotive. A small, flat screwdriver can be used to pry the stanchion tabs from their holes in the frame. A Post-It Note placed between the locomotive and the screwdriver may prevent the paint from being scratched.

If any of the small tabs on the bottom of the stanchions are broken off, the stanchions can be repaired following the instructions in the HANDRAIL STANCHION TABS repair tip. Set the handrails aside for now, they will be re-installed when the locomotive is re-assembled.

Place the locomotive upside down in a soft cradle taking care not to damage the horns.

Remove the two screws that hold the bottom of the fuel tank to the frame. Remove the tank, and fasten the two screws back in the frame so they do not get lost or mixed up with others.

Remove the two screws that hold the base of each coupler bracket to the frame. Remove the coupler brackets and their couplers, and fasten the four screws back in the frame so they do not get lost or mixed up with others.

Place the coupler brackets and fuel tank in the Ziploc bag with the side frames. They will be re-installed when the locomotive is re-assembled.

Remove the four screws indicated with the yellow arrows that hold the battery boxes to the frame. Their heads are flush with the frame. Place them in a small container for now.

There are ten screws outlined in yellow that hold the shell to the frame. These are hidden in deep burrows and will require a long, number 1 Phillips screwdriver to remove them.

Turn the locomotive over. Holding the ends of the shell, carefully lift it straight up. The whole shell (long hood, cab, battery boxes and short hood) will lift off as one piece. Do not lift it up too far or the wiring connectors may unplug.

THE ELECTRONICS

Remove the screw that holds each voltage regulator to a weight. Remove the voltage regulator, and fasten the screw and washer that hold each of the weights to the frame back in place.

Pull the disconnected USA Trains motor block wires through the holes in the frame. Remove the three screws and T-shaped printed circuit board from the frame. Fasten the screws back in place.

Remove the two screws and small printed circuit board from the frame. Fasten the screws back in place.

Fasten eight of the longer screws in the small container back in the long hood, two of the longer screws back in the short hood, and the four shorter screws back in the battery boxes so they do not get lost or mixed up with others.

Remove the two screws holding each of the printed circuit boards for the lights to each end of the shell. Place the screws in a small container so they do not get lost.

Carefully lift the printed circuit boards back so the number boards can be removed. The number boards are lightly glued to the shell and should pop out with a gentle push. Set them aside for now. The headlight lenses are also lightly glued to the shell and should pop out with a gentle push.

Remove the four screws, the smoke units, and the small printed circuit board from the shell.

Unplug the white plastic connector for the cab light from the T-shaped printed circuit board at the 2-pin header labeled "lamp". Place all the electronics in the large Ziploc bag with the track sliders. Fasten the fours crews back in the hood.

If the front and rear walls of the cab have not already fallen out, tape the wires for the cab light to the one. Tape the cab walls to the floor of the cab.

The cab light could be removed, but it involves a lot of work. I did so only because the engineer and cab stand were facing the wrong direction for this particular model.

HEADLIGHT PERF BOARDS AND JIG

LEDs will be used to replace the power hungry lamps used in the GP-9. The LED headlights, number board lights, and number boards will be mounted on a perf board. The LEDs and straight trace perf board are both available from All Electronics under catalog numbers LED-121 and ECS-4 respectively. OVGRS members can purchase the LEDs and perf board by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

Cut two pieces from the straight trace perf board, 20 traces across by 11 rows down. Sand the edges smooth. Each should measure 2 1/6 inches across by 1 1/8 inches down.

The LED headlights must be installed at exactly 3/4 of an inch from the component (green) side of the perf board. In order to do so, a jig must be made to hold them and the perf board in place while they are soldered. It can be made of either wood or MDF, but it must be exactly 3/4 of an inch thick.

Cut a strip of the wood 2 1/6 inches wide. Cut from the strip: one piece 2 1/16 by 2 1/16 inches, and two pieces 2 1/16 by 3/4 inches.

Place one of the perf boards solder (copper) side up. Using a fine tipped marker, mark the holes in traces 10 and 11 at rows 2 and 6.

Place the perf board on the larger piece of wood, flush with the top and sides. Push a pin through the holes marked on the perf board into the wood. Remove the perf board. Drill a hole between the two marks on the top of the wood with a 13/64 inch bit. Drill a hole in the wood between the other two marks.

Glue the two pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 x 2 1/16 inch wood flush with the sides and ends of the larger piece of wood.

SHORT HOOD LIGHTS

The model used for this article is a CNR GP-9 which prototypically ran long hood forward. Although your model may run short hood forward, there will be no difference in the operation of the lights. If it is a concern, remember the Revolution Train Engineer transmitter has menu options for changing the direction of the motors and/or the headlights to match the direction of travel of the locomotive and the screen display on the transmitter.

The bright white LEDs used for the headlights must have leads longer than 3/4 of an inch. LEDs are polarity sensitive: the longer lead (anode) is positive, and the shorter lead (cathode) negative. The flange on the base of the LED should also have a flat spot on the negative (cathode) side. Mark the flat spot on 8 LEDs with a black marker, so that polarity can be determined easily.

Although the circuit boards for the short hood and long hood lights use the same components, they are mirror images of each other in order that the headlights will function properly with each change of direction. For this reason they must be assembled separately, and the position of the components and polarity of the LEDs must be correct.

Place two LEDs in the headlight jig. The top LED should have the black mark to the left; the bottom LED the mark to the right. Place the perf board solder side up over the leads of the LEDs. The leads should be in the holes of traces 10 and 11 at rows 2 and 6. The top and edges of the perf board should be flush with the top and edges of the jig. Ensure the bases of the LEDs are sitting flush in the jig and the polarity of each is correct. Flux and solder the leads of the headlights to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Put a dab of Super Glue (CA) on the bottom of a bright white LED. Lift the perf board from the jig. Insert the leads in row 6, traces 5 and 6, ensuring that the positive lead is in trace 5 and the negative lead in trace 6. Push the LED flush against the component side of the perf board until the glue dries.

Put a dab of Super Glue (CA) on the bottom of a second, bright white LED. Insert the leads in row 6, traces 15 and 16, ensuring that the positive lead is in trace 15 and the negative lead in trace 16. Push the LED flush against the component side of the perf board until the glue dries.

Flux and solder the leads of the number board lights to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Bend the leads of a 1K ohm resistor so they will fit in the holes of row 8 at traces 6 and 15. Flux and solder the leads to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Bend the leads of a 1K ohm resistor so they will fit in the holes of row 10 at traces 5 and 10. Flux and solder the leads to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Two, All Electronics 4-pin connectors with headers (part number CON-244) will be used to wire the circuit board. The wires in the extra set will be soldered to the first set so they will reach under the cab to the center of the locomotive. OVGRS members can purchase them by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

The red wire in the connectors will not be used. Click on the following link AE Plug Set Wiring for instructions on how to remove it. Use the same procedure to exchange the positions of the yellow and blue wires.

The proper colour coding of the negative wire for HD1 (rear headlights) is white. Unfortunately the 4-pin connectors only come with yellow wire, so it will be used for both sets of lights. The colour of the wires however, will not affect the performance of the locomotive's headlights.

Flux and solder the ends of the wires to row 4 of the perf board: blue to trace 5, yellow to trace 10, and black to trace 16.

When the locomotive is traveling short hood forward, the receiver will allow the power for the short hood headlights to pass through the yellow wire attached to HD1 on the Plug and Play board to negative terminal of the battery.

That completes the wiring of the short hood lights circuit board, but the number boards have to attached to the components (green) side.

Cut two shims 3/4 of an inch long from a strip of styrene 1/4 inch of an inch wide by 1/8 of an inch thick. Glue them with Super Glue (CA) flush to the edges and bottom of the circuit board.

In order for the number boards to fit on the circuit board, the center section has to be modified to allow the leads of the bottom LED headlight to pass. Cut the small square section outlined in red from the center of the number boards.

Lightly sand the paint from the rear ridge of the number board assembly. Apply a thin coat of Super Glue (CA) to the rear ridge and sides of the number board. Use a micro brush to wash row 4 of the circuit board with CA kicker. Glue the rear ridge of the number board assembly over the holes in row 4 of the board, and the sides to the styrene shims.

When the glue has dried and cured, insert the headlights and number boards into the short hood. A small dab of hot glue on the bottom tabs of the number boards will assure they will remain in place.

Fasten two screws from the small container back in the hood. That completes the wiring, assembly and installation of the short hood lights.

LONG HOOD LIGHTS

Place two LEDs in the headlight jig. The top LED should have the black mark to the RIGHT; the bottom LED the mark to the LEFT. Place the perf board solder side up over the leads of the LEDs. The leads should be in the holes of traces 10 and 11 at rows 2 and 6. The top and edges of the perf board should be flush with the top and edges of the jig. Ensure the bases of the LEDs are sitting flush in the jig and the polarity of each is correct. Flux and solder the leads of the headlights to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Put a dab of Super Glue (CA) on the bottom of a bright white LED. Lift the perf board from the jig. Insert the leads in row 6, traces 5 and 6, ensuring that the negative lead is in trace 5 and the positive lead in trace 6. Push the LED flush against the component side of the perf board until the glue dries.

Put a dab of Super Glue (CA) on the bottom of a second, bright white LED. Insert the leads in row 6, traces 15 and 16, ensuring that the negative lead is in trace 15 and the positive lead in trace 16. Push the LED flush against the component side of the perf board until the glue dries.

Flux and solder the leads of the number board lights to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Bend the leads of a 1K ohm resistor so they will fit in the holes of row 8 at traces 6 and 15. Flux and solder the leads to the perf board. Trim the leads.

Bend the leads of a 1K ohm resistor so they will fit in the holes of row 10 at traces 11 and 16. Flux and solder the leads to the perf board. Trim the leads.

An All Electronics four-pin connector with header (part number CON-244) will be used to wire the circuit board. OVGRS members can purchase it by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

The red wire in the connector will not be used. Click on the following link AE Plug Set Wiring for instructions on how to remove it. Use the same procedure to move the yellow wire into the space vacated by the red wire, and the blue wire into the space vacated by the yellow wire.

Flux and solder the ends of the wires to row 4 of the perf board: black to trace 5, yellow to trace 11, and blue to trace 16.

That completes the wiring of the short hood lights circuit board, but the number boards have to attached to the components (green) side.

Cut two spacers 3/4 of an inch long from a 1/4 of an inch wide by 1/8 of an inch thick strip of styrene. Glue them with Super Glue (CA) flush to the edges and bottom of the circuit board.

When the glue has dried and cured, insert the headlights and number boards into the long hood. A small dab of hot glue on the bottom tabs of the number boards will assure they will remain in place.

Fasten the two remaining screws from the small container back in the hood. That completes the wiring, assembly and installation of the long hood lights.

LIGHT BOARD PLUGS

The six, long wires from the circuit boards for lights would create a spaghetti bowl of wiring that would be cumbersome to attach to the Plug and Play board. Instead they will be plugged into a small circuit board mounted in the top of the long hood. The circuit board will allow the shell to be connected to the Plug and Play board with a short, 4-pin plug set.

Cut a piece out of an All Electronics, straight trace perf board (part number ECS-4) 8 traces down by 11 columns across.

Glue the 4-pin headers from the All Electronics 4-pin connector sets (part number CON-244), to the small perf board. The header pins should face inwards, and be in traces 3, 4, 5 and 6 in rows 2 and 10 as shown.

The wires of the 4-pin plug sets (part number CON-440) available from All Electronics are colour coded black, blue, yellow and red. OVGRS members can purchase them by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

Click on the following link AE Plug Set Wiring for instructions on how to exchange the positions of the blue and yellow wires in the connectors.

The red wires in the plug set will not be used. Use the same procedure to replace it with a yellow wire from another plug set. When finished, the colour coding of the wires should be black, yellow, blue, yellow.

Trim the wires of the plug set to 4 inches on either side of the connectors. Insert the black wire in the center of trace 3 as shown. Flip the board over, flux and solder the black wire to the board.

Repeat the procedure to solder the yellow wire next to the black in the center of trace 4, the blue in trace 5, and the last yellow wire in trace 6.

Fasten the perf board with double-sided tape between the screws in the long hood as shown. Plug the 4-pin connectors into the headers.

THE BATTERY PACK

The lithium-ion battery pack will be fastened to a styrene platform mounted on the long hood weight. Remove the two screws and washers holding the weight to the frame. Place the screws in a small container and the washers in the Ziploc bag with the electronic parts.

Cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick styrene, 1 3/16 inches wide by 7 1/2 inches long. Cut two pieces from the strip the length of the weight. Securely tape the one of the pieces to the top of the weight flush at both ends. Hockey shin pad tape is great for this as it stretches somewhat, sticks well, and will not leave glue behind.

Turn the weight over and insert an 11/32 inch drill bit in one of the holes in the end of the weight. Turn the drill bit with your fingers to make a circular mark in the styrene sheet. Repeat the process for the hole in the other end of the weight.

Remove the tape and the styrene sheet from the weight. Tape both pieces of styrene together ensuring the edges and ends are flush and the marks made with the drill bit are facing out. Using the marks as a guide, drill two holes through both sheets with a 1/8 inch bit. Remove the tape and separate the sheets.

Using the holes as a guide, enlarge the two holes in one of the sheets with a 1/4 inch drill bit. These holes will be the pockets for the heads of the screws used to mount the platform and the weight to the frame. The pockets will prevent the screws from damaging the bottom of the battery pack.

Mount the second sheet to the top of the weight ensuring the holes line up on the bottom. Measure 2 inches from the end of the weight with the raised sides and place a mark on the sheet. Measure 1 1/4 inches from the other end of the weight and place a mark on the sheet. Remove the sheet and use the marks to cut it into a 2 inch piece and a 1 1/4 inch piece. Fasten the pieces back on the weight with the screws making sure the ends are flush with the ends of the weight.

Glue the other sheet to the two lower sheets making sure the edges and ends are flush, the holes line up, and the screws are properly pocketed.

After the glue has dried, pass a long cable tie through the gap in the bottom of the platform. Apply a length of double sided tape to the bottom of the battery pack and fasten it to the platform between the frame posts. Fasten the cable tie around the battery pack and connector wires as shown.

THE BATTERY PACK SWITCH

As the battery pack will be charged on-board, a double-pole double-throw (DPDT) switch is needed to toggle the battery pack between its charging plug and the receiver.

The DPDT center-off switch is available from All Electronics under catalog number MTS-12 . OVGRS members can purchase the DPDT switch by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

The switch will be installed in the hole in the frame just behind the long hood motor block. This will allow it to be accessible, but hidden when running the locomotive.

Cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick styrene, 1 15/16 inches wide by 7 1/2 inches long. Cut a piece from that strip 2 7/8 inches long. Set the other piece aside for the Plug and Play board platform.

Remove the 2 screws outlined in yellow that hold the air tanks to the bottom of the frame. Remove the air tanks, and place the screws in a small container.

Place the 2 7/8 inch long piece of styrene between the frame rails, flush against the back of the long hood weight and in front of frame posts shown by the screws. It should be a snug fit, but lay flat against the frame.

Turn the frame over. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the large hole in the frame onto the bottom of the styrene platform.

Place a 3/16 inch drill bit into each of the mounting holes for the air tanks, and turn it with your fingers to place two marks on the bottom of the styrene platform in the middle of the holes.

Pop the styrene platform from the frame. Draw a line down the centre of the platform through the two marks. Drill a hole on the line at each of the marks with 1/8 inch bit.

Measure on the line for the center point of the circle traced on the styrene platform. It should be 3/8 of an inch from each side of the circle. Drill a hole with a 1/4 inch bit for the switch.

Remove the nuts and washers from the switch. Using the tab washer, lock washer and only one nut; mount the switch on the bottom of the styrene platform so it toggles forward and backward.

Place the platform, with the terminals of the switch facing up, in a vise to secure it. Use a pin vise and a 1/8 inch bit to drill a hole through the platform right next to each side of the switch as shown in the following picture. These holes are for the long hood motor wires.

Push the platform back in between the frame rails. Secure it and the air tanks to the frame with the two screws.

THE PLUG AND PLAY BOARD

The Plug and Play board and Revolution Train Engineer receiver will be fastened to a styrene platform mounted on the frame.

Take the piece of styrene, 1/8 inch thick by 1 15/16 inches wide, that had been set aside. Cut a piece from it 3 7/8 inches long.

Score a line lengthways down the center of the platform and place a mark on the line 1 1/32 inches from one end. Drill a hole through the platform at the mark with a 7/64 inch drill bit. Pocket the hole about 1/16 of an inch deep with a 1/4 inch Forstner bit.

Remove the three screws outlined in yellow from the frame, and place the two larger ones in a small container.

With a 5/64 inch bit in a pin vise, carefully drill a hole in the frame through the center of each of the posts that held the larger screws. Be careful not to damage the threads in the post.

Fasten the platform to the frame using the smaller screw ensuring that the edges are parallel to the frame rails.

Flip the frame over. With the 5/64 inch bit in the pin vise, carefully drill a circular mark in the bottom of the platform through the center of each of the posts that held the larger screws. Be careful not to damage the threads in the post.

Flip the frame upright. Remove the platform and drill a hold through it at each of the marks with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Use the three screws to fasten the platform to the frame.

With the screw terminals facing the battery pack, fasten the Plug and Play board flush against the two larger screws with the double-sided tape that came with it.

Plug the Revolution Train Engineer receiver into the Plug and Play board ensuring that all the pins line up.

THE LINKING SWITCH

Plug its connector into the 2-pin header on the receiver. That completes the installation and wiring of the linking switch.

THE BATTERY PACK PLUG

The male half of an All Electronics, 2-pin plug set is used to connect the lithium-ion battery pack to the DPDT switch. It has the same connector as the Aristo-Craft, lithium-ion battery charger.

The 2-pin plug sets are available from All Electronics under catalog number CON-240. OVGRS members can purchase 2-pin plug sets by contacting Paul Norton. See the Items For Sale Section for details.

CAUTION: The wiring on the 2-pin plug sets sold by All Electronics is not always colour coded the same as the wiring on Aristo-Craft plug sets. If the colour coding of the wiring on the connectors is not the same as on the lithium-ion battery pack and charger, just click on the following link to see how to change the AE Plug Set Wiring so that proper polarity is maintained.

Cut the wires of the male half of an AE plug set to a length that will easily reach from the battery pack connector to the switch. Solder and shrink wrap the wires to the center terminals of the switch as shown in the following diagram.

THE BATTERY PACK CHARGING PLUG

The battery pack charging plug will be mounted on the rear pilot just under the coupler lift bar. On this particular locomotive it is the short hood pilot. It may be the long hood pilot on others.

The female half of the All Electronics 2-pin plug set will be used as the battery pack charging plug. It has the same connector as an Aristo-Craft, lithium-ion battery pack. Trim the wings off the plug and sand the sides of the plug smooth.

Drill a hole with a 1/8 inch bit in the rear pilot just under the center of the coupler lift bar. With the notch on the plug facing up, feed the wires through the hole until the connector is snug against the pilot.

Feed the plug wires through the notch in the frame near the weight until they are snug.

If necessary, solder and shrink wrap extra lengths of wire to the ends of the plug wires so they can easily reach the switch. Solder and shrink wrap the wires to the switch as shown in the following diagram.

WIRING THE PLUG AND PLAY BOARD

Cut a length of red wire and a length of black wire that will easily reach from the battery pack switch to the terminals on the Plug and Play board. Solder and shrink wrap one end of the wires to the switch terminals marked "RECEIVER" in the following diagram.

Strip a bit of insulation off the other ends of the wires and tin them with flux and solder. Fasten the red wire (battery positive) in the outside terminal of the 2-position block labeled "TRK". Fasten the black wire (battery pack negative) in the inside terminal of the 2-position terminal block labeled "TRK". It is marked with a triangle.

Apply plastic compatible grease on the axle on each wheel of the two motor blocks

Flip the frame over. Remove the 12 screws from the motor block cradles, and use half of them to fasten two side frames on one side the frame. Pass the wires of the motor blocks through their holes in frame. Slip the ends of the axles into the bushings of the side frames that have been fastened. Slip the bushings of the two remaining side frames over the remaining axles, and fasten the side frames to the motor cradles.

Flip the frame back over and set it on its wheels. Cut the motor wires to a length that will easily reach the terminals on the Plug and Play board. There must be enough slack to allow the motor blocks to pivot fully from side to side, or you will not be able to reach some of the screws required to fasten the shell to the frame.

Strip a bit of insulation off the ends of the wires and tin them with flux and solder. Fasten the red wire of the long hood block and the black wire of the short hood block in the inside terminal of the 2-position block labeled "MTR". Fasten the black wire of the long hood block and the red wire of the short hood block in the outside terminal of the 2-position block labeled "MTR". It is marked with a triangle.

Unplug the 4-pin plug set attached the shell for the lights. Strip a bit of insulation off the ends of the wires and tin them with flux and solder. Fasten the four wires of the plug in the screws terminals of the Plug and Play board as follows:

ACTIVATING THE BATTERY PACK

CAUTION: Check to ensure all the wiring on one side of the DPDT switch is red, and all the wiring on the other side is black. Check that the DPDT switch is in the center-off position. Check to ensure the colour coding of the wires on the lithium-ion battery pack and the plug soldered to the center terminals of the DPDT switch match. Plug in the battery pack.

Toggling the switch toward the long hood will connect the battery pack through one end of the switch to the receiver to power and control the locomotive.

Toggling the battery pack switch towards the short hood will connect the battery pack through the other end of the switch to its charging plug.

If the battery pack has not been charged, connect an Aristo-Craft, lithium-ion battery pack charger to the plug on the rear pilot and toggle the switch towards the short hood. After about four hours, the battery pack should be fully charged. Return the switch to its center-off position and remove the charger.

PROGRAMMING THE RECEIVER

Place the shell next to the frame and connect the 4-pin plug for the lights. Set the shell on the frame taking care not to pinch any wires between the shell and the frame rails.

To power or program the receiver, toggle the switch toward the long hood. The number board lights should all come on.

Program the receiver in accordance with the instructions provided in the Installation and Operation Manual for the 2.4 GHz TE. The manual is available on the Aristo-Craft web site as an Adobe pdf file. To read or download the manual, click on the link.

Raise the motor blocks so the wheels can turn freely. Test the locomotive to ensure it responds to the transmitter. Either set of headlights should come on at full intensity with the first push of the throttle (1% power) depending on the direction of travel of the locomotive.

After testing has been successfully completed, fasten the shell, fuel tank and couplers to frame using "THE SHELL" section as a guide. To make the 4 screws under the long hood motor block easier to access, slip one side of the front axle out of its bushing, then the other, and flip the motor block backwards.

CONGRATULATIONS! You have successfully converted a USA Trains GP-9 to on-board, battery power and radio control.

Comments:

Paul, I also swapped my wheel sets for NWSL 40" wheels, visual improvement, and wired my LEDs directly to 2 'AA' batteries with their own on-off switch.

Paul, Great job! Very informative. You contribute a lot to the hobby! Hope to meet you next year during the American Invasion!!

Thanks, Bill

Powered - USA Trains GP-7/9

by Paul Norton

INTRODUCTION